La Semana Santa Increible part 2

Just a few more photos! Pat gets credit for taking most of these.

Carpets in progress on Calle del Arco. (A sawdust alfombra is closest, and one of pine needles behind.)

Garden of Eden alfombra complete with Adam and Eve Barbies in the bottom left corner!

That’s. All. Sawdust. WOW.

Still in progress with stencils and sawdust, 6:45am, Good Friday.

The Jesus float on Good Friday from a block and a half away. It’s tough to get through the crowd sometimes… This float will walk over all of the alfombras seen above at some point throughout the day. It left the church at 4am, and won’t return until 2am Saturday. Pat and I saw it again around 9pm, but the pictures didn’t turn out at night. One word to describe it at night? I’d say haunting.

La Semana Santa Increible part 1

After writing what’s below I need to add this comment: My explanations here are based on my estimations and perceptions of what just happened in Antigua. In no way is my account complete, entirely accurate, or encompassing of the incredible acts performed during the weeks of Lent and Semana Santa. The photos do no justice, either, but a visual helps a bit.

I would be amiss to not include the splendor of Antigua in it’s peak of cultural celebration. All during Cuaresma (Quick language lesson…cuarenta=40, Cuaresma=Lent, a period of 40 days), churches put up velaciones—I’ve mentioned these Holy Vigils before, it’s a huge representation of a Bible story—and perform weekly processions carrying elaborate floats of Jesus and the Virgin Mary, followed by bands playing funeral marches through the streets.

During Semana Santa, Antigueῆos make alfombras (carpets) out of colored sawdust, pine needles, flowers, fruits and vegetables and other creative materials. They can be up to 50 feet long and 10 feet wide (by my estimations) and are created over the cobblestone streets using giant stencils over which they spoon the sawdust from scaffolds a foot above the ground. Most alfombras take anywhere from 6-12 hours to produce with typically a group of 5 or more people working at once. Intricacy varies from carpet to carpet as you wander the streets gawking at the creations, and no two are alike from year to year.

Alfombra in progress, laying on scaffolding, carefully adding rosebuds to the diamond shape in the middle of the design.

Sawdust alfombra made in front of Pollo Chapincito, a little fried chicken restaurant on my street. Yes, that is a whole chicken and gravy cup sitting on a plate, as an offering.

Something to note: Alfombras are created as offerings. There are no cash prizes for the most intricate or time consuming, there is no sign on the corner saying, "Jill created this alfombra, she deserves a cookie." Alfombras are an incredible act of anonymous devotion. As the carriers of the processions walk over the sawdust, the intricate designs are muddled, and immediately after the procession passes, a clean-up crew follows with brooms and shovels.

Alfombra made of pine needles and vegetables, complete with a mini arch at the other end! Pat and I came across this one around 6:30am on Good Friday—the streets were packed, as most people leave their houses at 4am to see the procession leave the church that day. We were such lazy bums.

Processions are dramatic, beautiful, emotional events. Every church in the area creates floats to be carried by up to 90 people, each toting near 100 pounds on one shoulder, depicting Jesus carrying his cross, or Mary weeping in prayer. The brotherhoods associated with each church raise money for and create the float, and organize the encargados (carriers). On the day of the procession, a procession may leave the church at 11am and walk the city streets until 2am. The encargados trade places beneath the float every block, and I have heard estimates of 6,000 men being part of one procession.


It’s tough to get the full view, but this Palm Sunday float is over 100 feet long, about 10 feet wide , and is being carried by 90 men.

The typical order of performance goes like this: a drum and flute player in cucurucho walk first, announcing the coming of the procession. Then comes another cucurucho swinging incense, and more men lining either side of the street, making way for the float. Often then we see representations of the saints or apostles, sometimes carried on poles in pieces of art, sometimes carried as statues by 4 cucuruchos. More incense, sometimes men wearing the uniform of a Roman soldier, sometimes men representing various characters like Pontius Pilate or judges. Important: none of these characters walk over the alfombras. As the float comes through, some of the cucuruchos carrying the float walk over the sawdust, but mostly the carpet passes under Jesus and the Virgin Mary and then is swept away. First, the Jesus float passes, followed by a 20 or 30 piece marching band, then more incense and women lining both sides of the street, dressed in traditional black veils. Women carry the Virgin float, up to 50 women in each block-long turn, as this float is not as long nor heavy as Jesus’. Following Mary, another band of the same size, playing yet a different funeral durge.

Maundy Thursday procession entering the Cathedral in Central Park, after walking the streets for 12 hours. The blue light is the huge float, Pat and I were standing in a crowd of about 500, so pardon the lack of zoom on my little camera.

Then come the brooms, shovels and trash truck to clean everything up, and following that, vendors with cotton candy, cucurucho dolls and other random paraphernalia that tends to ruin the beautiful devotion that has just passed.

Happiness part 2

The short version: Pat came! We had FUN!


Waiting for the Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) procession to pass through Parque San Sebastian (over Pat’s left shoulder are cucuruchos—men wearing the purple and white uniform, waiting to carry processional floats)

The long version: Patrick and I spent the week staring at each other, for the most part, not wholly believing that we were spending time together in a place like this. We, too, spent hours of every day walking the streets to see processions, alfombras and huge crowds, stopping now and then for a perfectly fresh Guatemalan cup of coffee, or a delightfully South American glass of red wine. We climbed a volcano, went to the beach, spent time with the Romero family (my hosts), applied and reapplied Aloe Vera and Caladryl. I even had a chance to explore Guatemalan cures for severe stomach pain when my lover didn’t feel well.


Our last few minutes at the Hotel Pez de Oro (Goldfish Hotel) at Monterrico beach were spent outside the bungalows near the pool. (The volcanic black sand beach left us a little toasted from the day before)

A couple of my favorite moments include the Pacaya experience and an evening spent at El Sabor del Tiempo…

Pacaya is one of several active volcanoes surrounding Antigua, and the climb is not for the faint of mind, body or soul. Pat and I tied our tennis shoes tight, packed a little backpack of snacks and thought we’d be good to go, as our guide provided no liability waivers to sign or “in case of death or injury” clauses to read. About halfway into the climb we were panting, exhausted and slipping around loose pumice stone, only to arrive at the flowing blaze orange lava at the peak, where some tourists were roasting marshmallows (over lava), some were lighting cigarettes (using lava) and others (like me) snapped their picture and got outta there. Did I mention there were at least 40 mph winds at the top of this volcano and I feared falling off several times? Oh and that the sun set, leaving us to find our way down the “hill” in complete pitch darkness? Terrifying? Yes. Worth every minute? Absolutely.


It was a little windy at the peak, but nice and toasty warm when sitting 1 foot from flowing lava


Between leaving the lava flow and beginning the trek down…

El Sabor del Tiempo is one of the charming, brick-ceilinged restaurants on the famous Calle del Arco. Patrick and I, after chasing processions and navigating intense crowds for several hours on Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday), decided that it was time for a break. We happened upon this restaurant, found a candlelit table and ordered the most delicious wine and pizza you could imagine. Hours passed and while we sat talking, laughing, staring at each other and being us. It was so cozy and comforting to be there together, we could have stayed overnight if they had pillows on the menu.

We stayed about an hour after they closed their doors and as we walked the streets home, we passed groups of people starting the incredible alfombras in preparation for the Viernes Santo (Good Friday) processions. We stayed out walking until near 2am, and the streets looked as if it were mid afternoon, with people everywhere and a parade of Roman soldiers on horseback roaming around. A quick nap and we were up again at 6am to see the completed alfombras and the incredible processions of Jesus’ burial. Our marathon evening/morning ended with more great coffee and delicious eggs benedict, followed by a 10am nap.


Lovers in front of the arch after delicious pizza y vino.

And now, Back to Reality…
I’d be lying if I said my eyes were dry at the airport Monday morning. Saying goodbye to my parents caused the same allergic eye watering reaction, but Pat was there for comfort. Saying goodbye to Pat was near impossible. I sought my comfort this time at the Cinnabon inside Miraflores mall in G.City.

Going back to school Tuesday was bittersweet. I missed my students and was thrilled to see their refreshed and glowing faces, but it felt a bit like running 5 miles when you have been in bed for days. Now battling stomach pain, fever and possibly strep throat, I am longing to travel back in time to those vacation days…

Antigua is now empty of the street vendors and crowds, the house is empty of my former high school aged neighbors and the 10 extra family members who stayed for Holy Week. Apart from the 5am firecrackers lit off on birthdays (aka every day), this city is quieter than I have ever heard it before. What a difference a day makes!

To end on a brighter note, Happy April! I have heard it’s actually turning Spring in MN, congratulations to those of you wearing t-shirts in the beautiful 50 degree weather!
Love to all!

Happiness part 1

I have split this story up into parts in order to display more pictures, as there is a limit of 5 per post. This story is about my parents, the next is about Patrick and in the next few days I will have a beautifully written description of Antigua's Semana Santa, never fear.

The short version: My parents came! We had FUN!



My travel pals and I on Calle del Arco (Arch Street) during one of our many strolls.

The long version: From March 20th to April 5th, I have been in a fantasy world completely different from the daily life I lead here in Antigua. I ventured to Guatemala City to pick up my parents and nearly passed out with anticipation in the huge crowd awaiting arrivals. It felt so good to hug them!! We stayed together for the following 8 days at Porta Hotel Antigua (picture tropical paradise with amazing food and you’re almost there). We slept in beds with clouds for pillows, we ordered room service coffee each morning and leisurely met the day, we laid by the pool and had made to order omelets while practicing our Spanish with Alvaro, the omelet chef. We walked the streets for hours each day, viewing processions and alfombras, we climbed a mountain in a Danish army truck and rode horses through a huge coffee plantation. We had delicious dinners in front of live music and enjoyed churros for dessert often. Dad became an authority on Guatemalan building materials after a few visits to El Mástil (like Home Depot), and read a huge amount of the history and culture sections of my Lonely Planet Guatemala book, in order to give daily breakfast reports! Mama’s Spanish was put to huge use every day as she navigated the Artisan’s Market, made friends on every street, and got to know Doῆa Chiqui and the family! Everyone we encountered said they were so impressed that my parents spoke Spanish and were so interested in Guatemala.



Dad and I explored some cave-like ruins while Mom stayed above ground for the photo shoot.



Mom and I shared this view of the central park are from Palacio de las Capitanes (more ruins)


Mom, Dad, A Danish Army Truck and I. (Also, a pretty nice view of the entire Antigua valley)

Now Antigueῆo daily life isn’t bad by any means. I love walking the city solo, I love my school, my work and my home! I must, however, make it known how much love my parents for their adventurous spirits, their willingness to try new things and learn, and their appreciation for complete relaxation. I am so grateful for all that they did to make this vacay happen. It was a wonderful and much appreciated break from the daily routine and brought me a realization that my parents aren’t just parents, but make excellent world travel pals, as well!

Exactly one week after their arrival, the ‘rents and I made the trip to G.City’s La Aurora Airport to pick up another loved one: Patrick John! I nearly didn’t recognize him coming through the Arrivals door, and he almost didn’t see me in the huge crowd, but somehow we found one another amongst the chaos and shared one of those romantic movie moments where the crowd goes silent and the two main characters hug and kiss and stare into one another’s eyes for a moment of slow motion.

That evening, my parents, Pat and I had dinner at an entirely over the top fancy restaurant called Palacio de something… (someone’s old palace turned restaurant—we should have known). The four of us sat down and giggled like small children as 6 waiters and the maitre’d (pardon my French) flocked to our table to unfold our napkins, pour our water out of individual bottles and bring more bread as soon as we took our last chew. This was all before our dinners arrived, covered in shiny silver domes, accompanied by 4 waiters who dramatically revealed the delicacies below in one synchronized movement. Jeez. Delicious? Yes. Over the top ridiculous? Absolutely.


Possibly the happiest night I’ve spent in Antigua: 3 loved ones in Parque Central.

It was tough to say good bye to Mama y Papa on Palm Sunday morning, but I knew they would be in the capable hands of the first class flight crew all the way home!

To conclude in Happiness part 2…

So I wrote this last Sunday...

I'm just getting around to posting this bit of writing from last week...it was an interesting one, full of random fainting spells followed by rest. I'm happy to report that all is well, and I am currently enjoying a Sunday afternoon with my PARENTS here in Guate!! I'll have more to say in a couple of days on that note, but for now, let me take you back a week...

Have I forgotten to write?

It has been a whirlwind two weeks, and the next one is sure to pass even more quickly. Between Colegio Boston and Tabacos y Vinos, my time has been mainly spoken for, but the past two weekends I have also had some serious fun and been able to explore a few different sides of Antigua!

La Vida Mia Antigueῆa

Last weekend I had the great blessing of a delicious meal with my student teaching supervisor who came to observe on Friday the 5th. Yes, this meant that I missed the velaciόn, but we had a lovely time and I was in bed early, which was much needed. Saturday night last weekend I was invited to a real live party! A friend of Christian and Sarah’s graduated from her master’s program and held a fancy shin-dig complete with dinner, live mariachi band and karaoke…not bad, yes? It was a blast to get dressed up, sing and dance with friends and being out past my usual bedtime was kind of a rush, too.

Also on my mind this week are my upcoming visits from Mama y Papa and Patrico! Last Saturday I received the surprising news that both of these pipe dreams will become reality! I was literally beaming with excitement for days after tickets were booked. Since then, I’ve been doing a bit of extra strolling and picking up fliers for volcano expeditions, boat tours of Lake Atitlan and other attractions Guatemaltecos. I even had a moment to pass by Hotel Porta Antigua, where I’ll have the pleasure of spending time with my padres!! It looks like an excellent choice. I am more than thrilled at the opportunity to see my loved ones, and I’ve even requested a leave from school and work for those two weeks! Can’twait.gov
This reminds me: if anyone wants to visit, I feel that I now know enough of the goings on here and I would be happy to set up tours...fyi.

This week I met some new friends who cam e to Antigua for a wedding at Hotel Santo Domingo (monastery turned gorgeous resort) and I added to my resume, “Cultural Tour Guide, Antigua, Guatemala.” With Friday night off from the wine shop, I was able to do some shopping and even relax! I then experienced some of Antigua’s night life, which I was told would include live salsa music and dancing, but instead consisted of a techno house party with fog machines and a short, stout and somewhat older Guatemalan breakdancer. Disappointment does not exist here.

On a tragic note, I have to report another first: TUMMY ACHE. Of course I have heard all of the horror stories about getting sick in other countries because of whatever amoebas exist in the water, food, dust or air, but of course never heed many warnings in my cocky, “I’m a traveler, I can take it” state of mind. Today I woke up at 5:00am with some of the worst stomach pain I can remember. One bottle of 7up, a chicken soup cup and some club crackers later, I’m feeling a bit better but it’s clear that my intestines and I are still not on speaking terms. Here’s hoping this is a 24 hour ordeal and nothing more.


En El Colegio Boston

I am humbled daily by my role as a STUDENT teacher, as I make hundreds of little mistakes and learn from them, some with immediate reaction or results and some I learn later were not great ideas. The frustration I feel within a foreign system are plentiful, which has built a thrill in me to come back and teach in Minnesota’s beautifully crafted education system (I know that sounds dramatic, but I find myself often longing for any of the Minneapolis schools in which I have subbed).
We do have a good amount of freedom in our curriculum and planning, which has been wonderful and overwhelming for me. Taking the idea of Ancient Rome from the students’ grammar book (a complete- packaged ESL curriculum called Lighthouse), we decided to use the topic for social studies as well, and that’s when I had a pretty big idea called the Roman Forum Simulation. The week’s preparations included several lessons from the Lighthouse book, internet investigations, creative writing, artwork and costume creation. Friday’s presentations centered around eight Roman professions: Scribe, Senator, Artist, Slave, Gladiator, Soldier, Philosopher and Citizen. Sarah and I were the Emperors, of course. Students chose their roles and prepared small speaking scripts and some elaborate costuming and posters to represent their understanding of the work they would have done in Ancient Rome. For one hour in each class on Forum day, we followed the laws created by the senators, discussed our likes and dislikes of the public bath and life in Rome, and watched as gladiators fought to the death in the middle of our classroom. There was also a question and answer period where slaves and soldiers alike could grill the Emperor about why laws existed and what would happen if the gladiators suddenly killed the leader of Rome…thankfully, some kind scribes stood up for me! The day exceeded my expectations, and while there is always room for improvement, I felt like a proud mother hen while watching my little Romans perform.

Other than that, I am working on developing new project ideas for social studies and science, as well as finding interactive ways to bolster my students’ use of adverbs. I took a little poll of what students would like to learn, and they came up with several movie titles they’d like to incorporate. It looks like we might do something with World War II (Kevyn wants to watch Saving Private Ryan), possibly Greek history (Rodrigo loves the movie 300), and I’m thinking our next unit will conclude with a Festival of Nations type event (Adriana actually wants to learn about other countries)! More on this in the coming weeks…

I still struggle to give clear and concise directions in English, and it still astounds me when I explain one point and have sixteen hands raised asking the same question afterward. Did I mention this was humbling work? I realized the other day that I could be working about 900% harder than I am right now, and it still might not be enough to get every student where they need to be, and it is one of the most frustrating and motivating facts of daily life. There are some great role models at the school, and I only wish I could spend more time observing hundreds of teachers in their classrooms before starting my own. There is so much to learn!

I’m out of words for today. I’ll likely be able to Skype evenings this week around 7:30pm, when I close the wine shop (and the wireless actually works there!) so if anyone is bored around 8:30 your time (Guate doesn’t Spring Ahead like MN), hit me up!

Time for more galletas de club (Saltines) and maybe laundry…the thrills don’t stop!
Love to all!

A continuación de la semana pasada…

Just a few firsts to add to the list:

First Earthquakes! One on Tuesday morning at 5am, which really felt more like a dream and only half awoke me from my deep slumber, and another more minor shake Tuesday at 9am during class, after which all of the students in the building went running and screaming with their hands on their heads. Some may say chaos, but Colegio Boston calls it procedure.

First day as a wine and cigar saleswoman! So yes, as it turns out, I did actually acquire employment abroad! Also on Tuesday, I began working at Tabacos y Vinos on Calle del Arco (the street with the big arch in the middle). It’s the “finest wine shop in Antigua” and if you have doubts, just check the prices. I was hired by Ricardo, el dueῆo, and I report to work each afternoon after my day at school and a quick lunch at home. I have received looks that tell me I’m crazy for getting another job (on top of Emiliano’s private lessons and, oh yeah, student teaching) but I absolutely love working at this place! I get to meet people from all around the world, taste fine wines and rearrange pretty bottles! I’ve found it relaxing this week, to have a little adult time, and the fact that I actually am learning about wine and making commission at the same time is something I truly don’t mind!

In case you´re wondering how to find me on a Sunday afternoon, just find this arch and the shop is basically underneath it! (My uncle Steve managed to find it on Sunday this week!!)



First Guatemalan cotton candy! Friday eve we made the pilgrimage to yet another velaciόn, this time at Santa Ines, which is a bit of a hike from the center of the city. Same drill: religious marvel surrounded by fried foods, but somehow it doesn’t get old! On the way out of the massive crowd, I passed by a man spinning fresh cotton candy onto a wooden stick. My moment had come. Sticky, yet satisfying.


Hmm…what else this week…

Things are beginning to feel routine, and every day passes very quickly. I have decided that my life for these three months will likely be consumed by school, work and schoolwork, with cultural asides here and there. After I mold some young minds and make some extra spending money, I will let loose and test out the travel lists that I am building from various tourists who wander into Tabacos y Vinos. I heard from two Canadian friends that the scuba diving in Utila, Honduras (little island in the Caribbean) is to die for, and there’s a world class night spot that is basically a huge tree fort. My thoughts: sign me up.

My classroom continues to look more like I want it to, management-wise, and each day students continue to surprise me with their random questions and linguistic exploration.

Monday the 5th graders presented their Acto Civico for the entire school, during which they performed a dragon dance and enlightened their fellow students as to some of the customs surrounding the Chinese New Year. There was even a spontaneous outbreak of applause during the performance! Total success.



Tuesday was Día Deportivo (field day) at Colegio Boston, and I had the good fortune of playing defense for the 5th grade girls fútbol team! Unfortunately I forgot my lack of skill on the cancha de fútbol and I took two fairly significant spills that tore up the better part of my elbows and left small bruises on my legs. Please see the photo below for evidence.


Just a couple of highlights, more later!

For now it has been very busy and I will have more to say this weekend…I will also hopefully have time to skype some of you and charlar por telefono (my newest purchase!)
Love to all!

There’s A First Time For Everything

La Vida

In travel and in life there are constant opportunities to turn over new leaves or experience something for the very first time, if we are willing to take a step into the unknown...

On Wednesday, I was introduced to a new game. Anyone ever played Pica Pica? On Mardi Gras, kids (and whoever else has the guts) play a game where you run around smashing eggs on each other’s heads. The eggs are painted and emptied of their egg-ness, then filled with pica pica (confetti), and a piece of tissue paper is glued on to cover the hole in the top of the egg. There don’t seem to be any rules as far as I can tell, only that you run around and continue smashing eggs on cabezas (heads) until all of the eggs are broken. Emiliano invited me to play after our lesson on Wednesday and then gave me a whole bag of my very own pica pica eggs! іQue suerte!

On Thursday, Sarah and I had the good fortune of missing our school bus in the morning (by about 30 seconds) and were then forced to find other transportation…in the form of a Tuk Tuk! These are 3 wheeled, 3 seat taxis that cruise all of Antigua and the surrounding areas. I have seen entire families riding in them, which is easy to do because some do not have doors, but it would appear to the untrained eye that only 2 adults can ride comfortably. I can’t say that I was upset about riding to school this way, I see Tuk Tuks every 4 minutes here and have been dying to try it. The verdict? Just like a mini rollercoaster ride—you feel every cobblestone bump, every spinning tire on the sand road and even that feeling that you can’t quite make it up the hill and you roll backward just a bit so you are scared but then you make it and realize how much fun it was! Lemons can always equal lemonade.


A Tuk Tuk!!

Friday afternoon I had my first Guatemalan job interview? This remains a question in my mind because details are still to be worked out, but I do believe I acquired employment! A few days earlier, I was walking on Calle Arco (the street with a beautiful arch in the middle) and I saw a sign that said “Looking for a job? Bilingual Foreigners Welcome,” so I stepped inside. The tiny wine shop smelled of cigars and espresso, and the owner was just closing for the night but he took down my name and email and I heard from him a day later. We scheduled an interview for Friday and 30 minutes later I heard the words, “well, you seem nice, See you Tuesday.” I think I officially work at Vinos y Tabacos (if that’s what the store is called)! More details Tuesday…

On Friday and Saturday, I experienced my favorite tradition so far… every weekend during Cuaresma (who remembers what that means?! Hint: the cuarenta days before Easter), local churches put on a Velaciόn. This is a huge wall-sized display of a Bible story, and an alfombra (carpet) that covers a 30 foot space in front of the display. The Bible story last night was of Jesus washing his disciples’ feet, and the one Friday night was from the book of Numbers. The display is fascinating, but the alfombra is an incredible demonstration of the dedication and faith of the church. Alfombras are created as offerings during lent, and are made with different colored sand or sugar, as well as vegetables, fruits and flowers (so, my apologies, but I won’t be purchasing any of these carpets to bring home). Using stencils, people work day and night to pour the various colors of sand into intricate patterns, while working on a scaffold system about a foot off the floor. They then add fruit and vegetable designs atop the sand, and line the sides with huge flower displays of hibiscus, bird of paradise, and every other exotic flower imaginable (which grow here in every average front yard). People come from miles away to pray, take photos and EAT, which is yet another aspect of velaciones: street food galore (basically picture a mini MN State Fair). On either side of the huge line to get into the church are vendors lining the street, selling things like balloons, light up wands, grilled meats, sandwiches, pupusas, tortillas, churros, fried plantains, and even Cotton Candy (you can imagine my reaction when I saw them spinning the pink stuff)!


Velacion from the book of Numbers in the Catedral, and the 40 foot alfombra...wow?


Velacion in Santa Catalina, in the outskirts of Antigua, worth the 15 minute drive and choque de moto on the way home!


I tried taking this photo from the back of the line to show how long we had to wait...can you tell it's a hot spot? Good, that's the point.

We attended last night’s velaciόn with the usual group of friends (by the way, when I use “we” it refers to Sarah, Christian and I, as they are my cultural liaisons, and their group of 8 closest friends who are SO much fun and have invited me to upcoming concerts and events!). One of these friends helped me in accomplishing another “First” for the week. Frederico drives a moto (aka motocicleta aka motorcycle/bike) and as it is the most popular form of transit here in Antigua, I have had the ganas (desire) to try it since my arrival. So, Christian arranged for Freddy to give me a ride home! My first moto ride was somewhat addicting …maybe I’ll trade in that bike I bought for my very own… and Freddy was an excellent tour guide- we cruised passed the best places to salsa dance, and the huge choque (car accident) that happened earlier in the evening (a 2 car choque = pandemonium in Antigua).

Then, about 30 seconds from my house, another first! A car turned too quickly in front and didn’t see us, clipping Freddy’s moto’s front headlight and we had a choque of our own! No one was hurt, only the yellow covering of the headlight fell into the street and the other car was scratched (don’t worry Mom!), but it was quite the experience! Freddy was entirely mortified and asked me at least 36 times if I was sure I was okay, and I thanked him for showing me the ropes. Really not a huge incident, but the sound of car hitting metal is one that sticks in your mind…maybe I’ll wait awhile on my moto purchase.

As my dear Patrick would say, “Never a dull moment!”


En El Colegio (AVISO: Muy Philosofa…WARNING: Much Philosophizing Below…)

After these three weeks of observation and shared teaching my desire for autonomy has multiplied dramatically. Acting as a support in the classroom is a nice way to ease into things but I have so many ideas in my head that I can hardly wait to begin my own classroom! Thus, I have requested to begin lead teaching full time starting Monday (aka tomorrow Holy Cow). So, in addition to the beauty of velaciones, the thrills of motos and choques, I have also been drowning in a sea of lesson plans. Overwhelming? Yes. Thrilling a la vez (at the same time)? YES!

My lofty goal is to have this classroom running like clockwork by the time I am finished. I have ideas for classroom management systems like the magic homework chair, morning work assignments that students begin immediately upon arrival to the classroom, and I’m sure I have more but my mind is swimming at the moment…
I want to institute a policy of respect for self, others and environment that creates a powerful atmosphere in which all students can learn, and I want these students to make huge strides in pride and responsibility in their academic and personal lives. My objective overall is to leave students with a strong grasp of the concepts of respect and responsibility so that if they do not remember my name they will at least remember that I respect them and their learning and want them to be successful. I want to leave students feeling empowered to become leaders! (Stepping down from my pulpit now…)
Moving back to last week, there were plenty of thrills. Tuesday was the Mardi Gras parade, as I mentioned last week, Wednesday the Catholic kids left school at 9:00am for Miércoles de Ceniza (Ash Wednesday) mass and the remainder of students left at noon, while teachers attended a capacitaciόn (similar to a professional development meeting) on assertive discipline in the classroom. Certainly interesting to re-learn this en Espaῆol!

I feel entirely grateful to have had the training and background education that I have (thank you, Hamline University). I am learning that much of the teaching philosophy here is based on little to no theory background; that anyone is a teacher who stands in front of a class and that students need to be disciplined and have strict consequences to succeed. To be perfectly frank, I do not appreciate nor do I abide by this philosophy and I believe one must find the balance between theory and practice to achieve expertise and truly be an educator who respects and empowers students not by iron fisted rule and fear, but by tapping interests and abilities and allowing student discovery. While I believe in experiential education and have benefitted greatly from its tenets, I am not entirely in agreement with experience as the only method of teacher education. Does that even make sense? My head is exploding this week.


Some of my students; a reminder of why I want to teach!! Kids, in any country, are the BEST.




Well that was intense. I’ve had a great week of living, teaching and thinking and as I begin to feel more comfortable and empowered in my surroundings, my mind tends to wander! Thanks for listening, I hope all is well at home!
Que les vaya bien, jill

Chocolates + Chaos = Feliz Dia del Cariño

Darling children dressed up for Mardi Gras parade at Colegio Boston. Precioso, no?


I saw heaven on one of my strolls, I thought you all might like to see it, too.


Mountain cruise on the way to Tec Pan for Valentine lunch!


Sarah and I buckled in for safety while Freddy took mountain corners at 100 km/hour...or so


Poppie, this is for you! I tried playing "guess that crop" on the way to Tec Pan, but no one wanted to play.



La Vida

Another week has passed and I feel as though I have been here for ages. Things are feeling more comfortable, I know my way around the town and my Spanish continues to serve me well when avoiding street vendors and making new friends. I was even able to help a fellow English speaker in a little tienda, when she was trying to figure out what was inside of the delicious looking pastries- the shopkeeper was trying to explain in Spanish and the woman continued asking in English. I eavesdropped for only a few moments, said the word pineapple, and the woman was very grateful!

I have found my happiness in my strolls around Antigua, the gorgeous landscape and my darling students. Each day I take a stroll down a different street and usually wander into a few shops or market areas. I’ve begun my list of souvenirs to purchase and I already know I’ll be hard pressed to fit everything into the huge backpack my brother generously lent me! The sights never cease here, and I am trying to take pictures as much as I can without looking too much like a tourist. I’ll post some soon, I promise! The students are also getting more used to me, as I am to them, and I have fallen love with the way they say “Goo Morgnig Mees Jee.”

On Mondays and Wednesdays I work with Emiliano on his English, and we are becoming good pals. Yesterday we read a Ninja Turtles story that he had on his shelf and decided we would write a continuation about Mutant Ninja Cats! He already has great ideas, and I’m planning to make some book pages tonight. I’ll let you all know when its published.

My other typical activities include lesson planning, walking around for snacks with Sarah and Cristian, and running into the high school girls that live across the hall- we always seem to find each other in the street! It makes me feel like I know people, which is kind of nice!

On Sunday Cristian and Sarah’s group of friends brought me with them for lunch in Tec Pan, a city about 45 minutes from Antigua. We drove over mountains, past farmland and through “la linea roja” aka the area of Chimaltenango lined with brothels and ladies standing in doorways. Oh the places I’ve been! (No, we did not stop anywhere along La Linea Roja, and no, I did not take pictures of the drag queen.) I did, however take some great pictures of the random cows along the highway and the deer heads that decorated ChiCuoy, the famous restaurant that serves huge meat platters. It was almost a Guatemalan version of Fogo de Chao!

In other news, we have a new neighbor named Bernardo Valentín. He weighs about 5 pounds and is still in his crying phase, but is very loving! In case I haven’t mentioned yet, Cristian’s sister Flor lives next door with her four children and now their brand new beagle puppy! Bernardo is 1.5 months old and is my new favorite puppy.

Other than that, I have been doing some teaching stuff…feel free to read on.


En El Colegio

My main school responsibilities this week were teaching reading (Island of the Blue Dolphins) and science (a mold growing experiment aka delish), along with further acclimation to the school, students y todo lo de Guate.
Each day felt a bit more hectic than the one before, but I could also feel that I am becoming more accustomed to the school and students, which was encouraging. This led up to Friday, which I will now call “El Dia de Chaos.” The day began with an interesting announcement to teachers that students would need to clean out their lockers and bring all of their materials into the classroom because the engineers would be fumigando (yes, that is a cognate and it means fumigating) over the weekend. Thus our classroom turned into one huge locker and students were literally jumping over piles of books to get around.

If that wasn’t enough, students had also brought to school various sandwiches, pizzas, chips and 3-litre bottles of soda for the afternoon potluck and soccer festivities, along with their Secret Friend exchange gifts, which ranged in complexity from a piece of chocolate and a heart to an elaborate stuffed bear with red balloon and calculator/pen gift set. I received a lovely box of pink donas (Guate for doughnuts) and a beautiful valentine that now hangs on my bedroom wall. The day was a sugar-rush and I couldn’t decide whether I loved every minute or wanted the day to end!

In addition to making regular plans and Valentine plans and locker cleaning plans, I have been constantly brainstorming methods on how to turn our classroom into a well-oiled machine. Yesterday I started the magic “Home work Chair” on which students place their daily assignments at the beginning of class, as well as “That Thing You’re Supposed to do When You Arrive,” which could be called Morning Work in a Minnesota classroom. I’m working on creating systems so that the students know what to do at any given moment. The homework chair and morning work have gone well this week so far and I hope to continue coming up with efficiency techniques that work!
This morning was a celebration of Carnaval (Fat Tuesday) before the beginning of Cuaresma (Lent). All students were invited to dress up and parade around the school grounds! The majority of students were in kindergarten, preparatoria (between K and 1st) and first grade,with the addition of one belly dancer from fourth grade and Kevyn, our 6th grade cowboy! On the bus ride home today I sat by Jose Andres, the 1st grader, and we discussed how cool he looked in the parade with his elaborate Pinocchio mask.

Thanks for your patience as I navigate the Guatemalan internet, things are unreliable at best, but I love hearing from you all be it on Skype, gmail or anything! More later and Happy Lent!
Love to all, jill

Ay! Que Semana! (what a week!)

This is the view from my bus window every day on the way to school...se llama Volcan Agua


My lovely room complete with photos of friends and family, letter from my parents and a valentine from Adriana (5th grader) hanging on my wall!


Flossy mountain bike, 300 Quetzales. Riding cobblestones to Emiliano's house every Monday and Wednesday, at least 2,000 calories. Best idea ever? Duh.


The front door/patio area at 71 Colonia el Manchen (my house) with our precious poodle, Wolfie, sitting in his usual spot.

My plan is to provide a bit of an immersion experience by writing in Spanglish occasionally, FYI. Also, I will be writing a teaching focused reflection each week as part of my student teaching requirements, so I’ll post those as well, in case anyone’s interested in my detailed educational experience!

Thus far I know several things. First, Guatemala is breathtaking in so many ways. Second, kids are kids everywhere. And third, nothing beats a home cooked meal and a comfy pillow.

I arrived on Sunday afternoon sin problemas, got in a cab for about 40 minutes and finally found my house! #71 Colonia el Manchen was not as well known as I thought it would be, and it took a minute to figure out exactly on which door I should be knocking, but the search was well worth it. After finding the house and meeting my hosts, I changed my shoes and we were off walking to Jose Fernando’s 2-year-old birthday party complete with 4 piῆatas, tons of dulces and delish dinner! Cristian and Sarah then took me walking around the city, where we met friends in the Parque Central and ate tacos duros (like potato-filled taquitos, covered in cabbage and hot sauce..delish). Pretty nice little Sunday!

Since then I have been pretty busy getting settled, exploring and working on my Spanish! Please see the following sections for questions about specific aspects of my life here…

The Roomies

I live in the house of Doῆa Chiqui, an older woman who lost her husband several years ago and began taking in students as guests. In the house there is Chiqui, her youngest son, Cristian, who is the boyfriend of Sarah, my cooperating teacher from Kansas City (both about my age). We also have three girls and two boys who are high schoolers studying on scholarships here in Antigua. They came from smaller cities in Guatemala and have lived with Doῆa Chiqui for the past two school years. Also, there is Lulu, our teeny calico kitten and Wolfie, the graying poodle who wears a snowman sweater and has a taste for table scraps.

We live next door to Chiqui’s daughter who has several smaller children, and we see them often (and hear them even more!) Then there is Uberlinda, our cleaning lady who comes daily and Don Chepe who helped build the house a year ago and is now working on a tile patio outside. (His tile hammering and drilling was my Saturday morning wake- up call yesterday at 7:30!)

La Comida

Our meals are all served at the family dining room table. Breakfast and lunch are eaten as we come and go, and Doῆa Chiqui always has something hot and fresh prepared. Each morning I’ve had a bowl of cornflakes and the freshest fruit imaginable before heading off to school. Each afternoon there is something different waiting; one day beef stir fry with rice, another day chicken in a red sauce with potatoes, always served with a different type of fruit juice (peach, watermelon, etc.). For dinner, all of the housemates gather at the table and I am challenged to keep up en Espaῆol. We have frijoles negros revueltos (mashed black beans), huevos con pimiento (eggs with peppers), and always a fresh cup of Nescafe instant coffee. Todo muy rico, claro (everything’s delish, of course).

I have also been introduced to the riquisimo (delish) street food Antigua has to offer! Friday night, my housemates and I walked down the street for tostadas, dobladas and pupusas (all cooked on various street corners by Guatemalan women and served fresh, hot and covered in chile sauce!) Here’s the drill: you order one or two items at a time (each costs about $.50) and then sit around the stand on little plastic stools eating until your heart’s content! Puro cielo (pretty much heaven)!

En El Colegio Boston (at school)

The weekday schedule goes like this:

7:15 or so, Sarah and I walk to the nearby parque San Sebastian, where we wait for the big yellow bus, which we ride with the students in to school each day. It picks us up around 7:25 and we arrive to school by 8:00 or a little earlier. I sit by Jose and his younger brother Fernando, who has some cool videojuegos he likes to tell me about.

8-11 we have students from 4th, 5th and 6th grades, section A. Miss Sarah (and now Miss Jill, too) teaches the intermediate level English classes for these grades. During this time we work on English grammar, spelling, social studies and science. The duty of the English teacher is to speak in English and expose students to as much language as possible, while also encouraging their conversation skills. We have a recess time each day for 30 minutes, during which students may eat their snacks or run around like crazy (you can guess what is the more popular choice). Certain days of the week we also send the kids to special classes including music, art, physical education and computers, and once per week we have a Reading Buddies exchange with the first graders!

11-2, same drill with the section B group of 4th, 5th and 6th graders. This bunch is a bit more rowdy, but that’s to be expected as the temperatures climb to 70 or 80 degrees and our classroom door stays shut to keep the noise down.

2-3 pm on Thursdays are special after school classes, during which I go to Club Cientifico with Miss Sarah, and this week the science project was making compasses!

Other days of the week we get on a little bus and come back home, where we find our lunch waiting. Then, Mondays and Wednesdays I get on my flossy new bike and head over to Candelaria, a nearby neighborhood and work with Emiliano, a fourth grader, on his English (yes! I even get paid!). I help with homework, drink freshly made watermelon juice and I’m trying to teach him a little Chinese, as he said that was the next language on his list! (so far Ni Hao and hambaobao have been a hit—thanks Bridget!)

Tuesdays and Thursdays I might have another student come to the house for English lessons, he’s a sixth grader named Gabriel, we’ll see if that pans out next week!

Lesson planning takes place little by little throughout the week, as most of the English grammar curriculum is provided by the Lighthouse series of teacher guides and student books. Sarah and I talk through most of what we’ll do during recesses each day, and we briefly chat each night about the following day, as well. Next week, we are going to grow mold! (Strictly for the scientific purposes of introducing the Fungi kingdom, of course)

El Clima

The weather this week has been beautiful! We wake up to about 50 degrees or so and (the other morning I even saw my breath!) by the afternoon it reaches 75 or 80ish, which makes for a toasty bus ride home! Yesterday was gorgeous- I got to help plant flowers in the patio and I even got a little sun taking a rooftop nap! Everyone says it will get much warmer in March and April so if you’re planning to visit me, leave the parka at home :).

Preguntas y Metas

This week has left me with many questions about teaching philosophy, Guatemala and life in general. I am not sure I agree with the educational philosophy employed by Colegio Boston, but it will certainly be an interesting place to learn a different way of doing things—I’ll have more to say on this later… I’m hoping to at least demonstrate some of the respect values I learned as a kid so these kids can see that screaming in class is not the best option, etc.

My goals while here include:
1. Improving my classroom management skills, with an emphasis on culturally responsive teaching and engaging student strengths
2. Improving my Spanish language skills
3. Gaining an understanding of Guatemalan culture and values
4. Honing my ability to RELAX and take it all in (as I’ve seen the people here doing often!)


So for now, that is the story. It’s looking like internet access is unreliable, and thus I’m never guaranteed the ability to write, Skype, or check email, but I’ll do my best to keep in touch!! Please know that I’m thinking of you, my friends and family, and keeping a little notebook of things I want to tell you! Some examples include:

Hermano—they have TukTuks here for taxis! (I’ll try to post a picture, but they look like something straight out of India!)

Hermana Estefa—the neighbors here play reggaetόn every night so you can often find me up on the roof jamming out, duh.

Patrico, mi amor—I saw the most adorable Jack Russell puppy in the world and think you should come and adopt him…

Mama y Papa—I am investigating hotels and have the number for a great airport taxi (just planning ahead!)

TO ALL—I have the inside scoop on places to stay, things to do and when to come…Sarah just showed me her pictures from Semana Santa last year (Holy Week) and it’s INSANE so if you want to see some real Guatmala, get a ticket and I’ll help with the rest!!! Plus, I have that week off of school so you have a personal tour guide (I give you good price).

Alright, that’s really it…ііQue les vaya bien!! (the Guate farewell)

Pre-Departure

Hola Todos!

I thought it would be wise to reduce the poundage in my carry-on and write a journal here, rather than on paper. Please join me in my journey through student teaching, travel and growing up!

More soon,
Jill