Waiting for the Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday) procession to pass through Parque San Sebastian (over Pat’s left shoulder are cucuruchos—men wearing the purple and white uniform, waiting to carry processional floats)
The long version: Patrick and I spent the week staring at each other, for the most part, not wholly believing that we were spending time together in a place like this. We, too, spent hours of every day walking the streets to see processions, alfombras and huge crowds, stopping now and then for a perfectly fresh Guatemalan cup of coffee, or a delightfully South American glass of red wine. We climbed a volcano, went to the beach, spent time with the Romero family (my hosts), applied and reapplied Aloe Vera and Caladryl. I even had a chance to explore Guatemalan cures for severe stomach pain when my lover didn’t feel well.
Our last few minutes at the Hotel Pez de Oro (Goldfish Hotel) at Monterrico beach were spent outside the bungalows near the pool. (The volcanic black sand beach left us a little toasted from the day before)
A couple of my favorite moments include the Pacaya experience and an evening spent at El Sabor del Tiempo…
Pacaya is one of several active volcanoes surrounding Antigua, and the climb is not for the faint of mind, body or soul. Pat and I tied our tennis shoes tight, packed a little backpack of snacks and thought we’d be good to go, as our guide provided no liability waivers to sign or “in case of death or injury” clauses to read. About halfway into the climb we were panting, exhausted and slipping around loose pumice stone, only to arrive at the flowing blaze orange lava at the peak, where some tourists were roasting marshmallows (over lava), some were lighting cigarettes (using lava) and others (like me) snapped their picture and got outta there. Did I mention there were at least 40 mph winds at the top of this volcano and I feared falling off several times? Oh and that the sun set, leaving us to find our way down the “hill” in complete pitch darkness? Terrifying? Yes. Worth every minute? Absolutely.
It was a little windy at the peak, but nice and toasty warm when sitting 1 foot from flowing lava
Between leaving the lava flow and beginning the trek down…
El Sabor del Tiempo is one of the charming, brick-ceilinged restaurants on the famous Calle del Arco. Patrick and I, after chasing processions and navigating intense crowds for several hours on Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday), decided that it was time for a break. We happened upon this restaurant, found a candlelit table and ordered the most delicious wine and pizza you could imagine. Hours passed and while we sat talking, laughing, staring at each other and being us. It was so cozy and comforting to be there together, we could have stayed overnight if they had pillows on the menu.
We stayed about an hour after they closed their doors and as we walked the streets home, we passed groups of people starting the incredible alfombras in preparation for the Viernes Santo (Good Friday) processions. We stayed out walking until near 2am, and the streets looked as if it were mid afternoon, with people everywhere and a parade of Roman soldiers on horseback roaming around. A quick nap and we were up again at 6am to see the completed alfombras and the incredible processions of Jesus’ burial. Our marathon evening/morning ended with more great coffee and delicious eggs benedict, followed by a 10am nap.
Lovers in front of the arch after delicious pizza y vino.
And now, Back to Reality…
I’d be lying if I said my eyes were dry at the airport Monday morning. Saying goodbye to my parents caused the same allergic eye watering reaction, but Pat was there for comfort. Saying goodbye to Pat was near impossible. I sought my comfort this time at the Cinnabon inside Miraflores mall in G.City.
Going back to school Tuesday was bittersweet. I missed my students and was thrilled to see their refreshed and glowing faces, but it felt a bit like running 5 miles when you have been in bed for days. Now battling stomach pain, fever and possibly strep throat, I am longing to travel back in time to those vacation days…
Antigua is now empty of the street vendors and crowds, the house is empty of my former high school aged neighbors and the 10 extra family members who stayed for Holy Week. Apart from the 5am firecrackers lit off on birthdays (aka every day), this city is quieter than I have ever heard it before. What a difference a day makes!
To end on a brighter note, Happy April! I have heard it’s actually turning Spring in MN, congratulations to those of you wearing t-shirts in the beautiful 50 degree weather!
Love to all!
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